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The story of my workshop started with my own problem: I was looking for a solution to a fault on my own Mercedes that nobody wanted to take on – not because of the money, they simply didn't want to touch it. That's when I decided to find the solution myself, and from this initiative more and more people started to come to me, asking me to help repair their Mercedes as well.

Over the years I gained a huge amount of experience, and the hobby gradually turned into an independent workshop.

With time our services expanded to other brands too: thanks to my own cars and to the experienced colleagues who joined the team, today we work on BMW-Mini, Porsche, Audi, Jaguar, Land Rover, and from 2025 also on Volvo (not by accident – I've already bought two of them).

My goal is cost‑effective, professional repairs while preserving the original factory condition as much as possible – right down to the last clip and sticker.

Through continuous learning, training and a lot of research, I have built up a wide range of knowledge in finding and repairing faults on these cars. Modern vehicles are built on micro‑electronic systems and complex networks, so understanding these systems is essential – and I learned them on my own initiative, with persistent study.

With ongoing development, modern equipment and a well‑prepared team, our workshop is ready to deal with even complex faults. Today we also undertake complete drivetrain repairs – including removing the traction battery as a complete unit on electric vehicles using a professional lifting table, for faster and more precise work.

In every case we repair each car as if it were our own. As a true car enthusiast, factory‑level or equivalent quality is especially important to me – both technically and visually.

About us – in more detail

Many Mercedes, BMW, Mini and Porsche owners feel that the only "safe" place to service their car is a main dealer. At the same time, more and more people are looking for an independent specialist who works at factory level, where they get real attention, transparent prices and personal contact.

In this article I'll summarise why a workshop specialised in German premium cars can often be a better choice than a traditional dealer – especially if you have a Mercedes, BMW-Mini or Porsche in your garage.

1. Factory diagnostics – without factory prices

One of the most common fears is:
"If it's not a dealer, they probably don't have the proper factory diagnostics."

With us it's exactly the opposite.

What do we use in the workshop?

Mercedes: Xentry Online
BMW / Mini: ISTA / ISTA‑P
Porsche: PIWIS
Volvo: VIDA
plus other factory and professional diagnostic tools

In other words, we check your car with the same factory systems that dealers use – you just don't have to pay dealer labour rates. Accurate diagnostics also mean we don't replace parts at random; we repair in a targeted way, without unnecessary costs.

2. Factory‑quality parts with real choice

At a main dealer you usually only get genuine boxed parts, often at a very high price.
In a specialist workshop like ours we can:

offer genuine parts,
or OEM parts from factory suppliers (e.g. Mann, Mahle, Bosch, ZF, etc.),
and we look at what makes the most sense for you.

For every part we'll tell you:

what the genuine option is,
what OEM / premium aftermarket alternatives exist,
how they compare in price and expected lifetime.

So you decide – we don't decide for your wallet.

3. Cost‑effective servicing with factory service history

Many people worry that if they don't go to a dealer, they'll "lose their service history".
Today that's no longer the case.

For the brands mentioned above we can also enter maintenance into the manufacturer's online service system.
You receive invoices, work orders and documentation for all work carried out.

This means:

your car's value can be maintained better,
when selling, you can prove proper, professional maintenance,
and you get all this with lower maintenance costs than at a dealer.

4. Personal responsibility and passion for cars – not a production line

At a main dealer you often don't know who actually works on your car, and you rarely meet the mechanic in person.
With us it works very differently:

you know who is working on your car,
we explain what we're doing and why,
we show you the faulty parts,
we discuss your options and the expected costs upfront.

Since the whole workshop started from my own Mercedes problem, it's especially important to me that we repair your car as if it were our own. You're not just "a licence plate" or one work order out of many – you're a specific car with a specific story.

5. Complex faults that others don't want to deal with

The reason my workshop exists is that nobody wanted to take on my own Mercedes at the beginning.

Since then we often hear sentences like:

"I've been to three places with this, nobody could find the fault."
"At the dealer they just want to replace the entire unit, not repair it."

Modern Mercedes, BMW and Porsche models are full of:

micro‑electronic systems,
CAN networks,
sensors and control units.

Finding faults in these systems takes time, patience and specialist knowledge.
I learned these things through my own effort, research and hands‑on experience – precisely so that we can solve problems that other workshops often turn away.

6. Complete service in one place: drivetrain, body, insurance

Servicing a premium car rarely stops at an oil change:

engine and transmission repair / overhaul,
suspension, brakes, tyre service, wheel alignment,
air conditioning, electrical faults, diagnostics,
body repair, painting,
full insurance claim handling.

It's a big advantage if you can get all of this in one place, from a team that already knows your car and its history – so you don't have to find a new workshop for every single problem.

7. When is a specialist workshop the right choice?

A few typical situations when it's especially worth coming to us:

Out‑of‑warranty Mercedes, BMW-Mini, Porsche, Volvo, Audi, Jaguar, Land Rover, VW, Škoda, etc.
Complex, recurring faults that other workshops "couldn't find" or only temporarily fixed.
If you want factory‑level work with transparent costs.
If it's important to you that we preserve the factory condition – including clips, stickers and all the small details.
If you're not looking for an impersonal "dealer conveyor belt" experience, but personal, honest, professional care.

In summary

A good workshop specialised in German premium cars is not the enemy of the dealer – it's the sensible alternative:

factory‑level diagnostics and expertise,
genuine or OEM parts with real options,
transparent, fair pricing,
personal responsibility and genuine passion for cars,
complete mechanical, body and insurance services in one place.

If you have a Mercedes, BMW-Mini, Porsche or any other German premium car and you want it to be treated as if it were our own, a specialist workshop is often a better choice than a large, impersonal main dealer.

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What to Check Before Buying a Used Premium Car – From a Mechanic's Point of View

Many people come to me with the same question:

"I've found a nice Mercedes/BMW/Porsche – do you think it's worth buying?"

From the outside, a lot of cars look perfect – shiny paint, nice wheels, fresh wash. But from underneath, on the lift, with proper diagnostics, the picture can be very different. I've seen plenty of "dream cars" where, if the customer had bought them, they would have spent the purchase price again on repairs in the first year.

In this article I'll share what I look at before buying a used premium car, and how you can save a lot of money by checking the right things in time.

1. Service history – without documents it's just a nice story

My first questions are always:

"Is there a documented service history?"
"Do you have invoices, work orders, entries in the manufacturer's online system?"

The phrase "Full dealer service history, but no paperwork" is usually not a good sign.

What do I do in these cases?

If possible, I check the manufacturer's online service system (Mercedes, BMW, Volvo, etc.).
I ask for any invoices and work orders that exist.
I look for signs of:
- major engine work,
- transmission repairs,
- significant body repairs (accidents).

If there's no service history at all, I always say:
assume that in the first 1–2 years you'll have to catch up on all the missed maintenance.

2. Engine and oil – this is where a lot is decided

Many engine problems start with neglected oil changes.

What do I check?

Cold start sound:
rattling, knocking, metallic noises (can indicate chain, tensioner or internal wear).
Smoke, smell:
bluish smoke, oil smell – may suggest oil consumption.
Oil level and condition:
too thick, pitch black, burned smell, or suspiciously fresh (sometimes "quick change before selling").

If I hear a suspicious noise or see something odd, I tell you straight away. It's much better to walk away from a bad car now than pay for an engine rebuild later.

3. Transmission – especially critical with automatics

With automatic gearboxes:

the smoothness of shifts,
any jerks or slipping,
behaviour hot vs. cold

all tell a lot.

What do we do?

Test drive together, not just a quick spin around the block.
Diagnostics:
fault codes, adaptation values, oil temperature, slip, etc.

If the transmission feels uncertain, jerks or slips, it can become very expensive. I don't play the "it'll probably be fine" game here – I'll tell you honestly what I see.

4. Suspension and brakes – not always obvious on a short test drive

Hungarian roads + heavy premium cars = suspension and brakes take a serious beating.

During the inspection we check:

control arms, bushes, ball joints,
shock absorbers,
anti-roll bars and links,
brake pads and discs (wear, grooves, lips),
handbrake operation.

Very often I see this:

From inside: "No strange noise, drives fine."
From underneath:
"This is loose, that's worn, that's cracked…"

Tyre wear also tells a lot about poor wheel alignment.

You'll get a clear summary:

what needs to be replaced immediately,
what will likely need attention within 1–2 years.

5. Bodywork, previous repairs, rust

A shiny paint finish can hide a lot.

What do we look at?

Uneven panel gaps (doors, boot, bonnet).
Panels with different shade of colour.
Paint thickness (if you request a detailed check).
Rust at typical spots:
- sills, wheel arches,
- underbody, mounting points,
- boot edges, water drains.

Previously properly repaired bodywork is not a problem –
the real issue is poor-quality, rushed repairs that will cause trouble again later.

6. Diagnostics – not just clearing fault codes

On any used premium car, proper diagnostics are a must.

I don't just plug in a generic handheld reader – I use:

Mercedes: Xentry
BMW/Mini: ISTA
Porsche: PIWIS
Volvo: VIDA
etc.

What do I look at?

Active faults.
Previously cleared but recurring issues.
Control unit communication (CAN network).
Live data (sensor values, pressures, temperatures, etc.).

The goal is not:
"Clear the codes and hope for the best."
The goal is that you know exactly what you're getting into if you buy the car.

7. Interior, electronics, everyday usability

With a used premium car, it's also important that it's pleasant and functional to live with:

Do all windows, mirrors, seat adjustments work?
Does the AC cool properly, are there any bad smells?
Do the parking sensors, cameras, lights work?
Are there any annoying "little faults" that all cost money:
- airbag light,
- ABS/ESP warnings,
- various error messages?

You'll get a list of:

what's just a comfort issue,
what is a safety or more serious technical risk.

What do you get from me with a pre‑purchase inspection?

When you bring a car in for a pre‑purchase inspection, my goal is not to convince you to buy it.

My goal is:

to make sure you clearly understand what you're looking at,
to show you the realistic costs you can expect in the first 1–2 years,
and if the car is a bad deal, to make it easier for you to say:
"Thanks, I'll pass on this one."

What do I actually do?

I inspect the car from top to bottom, inside and out.
I run a full check using factory-level diagnostics.
On a test drive I check transmission, suspension, brakes, engine behaviour.
I explain everything to you in plain language, not just in error code numbers.

If you want, I can also give you a written summary you can even use when negotiating with the seller.

When should you bring a car to me?

When you've found a Mercedes/BMW/Mini/Porsche/Volvo/Jaguar/Land Rover/Audi/VW/Škoda that you really like, but you don't want to decide blindly.
When you're looking at a freshly imported car and you don't fully trust "freshly refurbished, in perfect condition" descriptions.
When you already have a bad feeling – too cheap, too few kilometres, too perfect on photos.

In short:
buying a used premium car can be a very good decision –
but only if someone who works on these cars every day checks it before you pay for it.

I see these cars from underneath, on the lift, disassembled. What I see there, I'll share with you honestly – before you make a decision.

If you'd like a pre‑purchase inspection, feel free to contact me and bring the car in before you pay a deposit. It's the cheapest "insurance" you can buy for yourself.

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